The Lasithi Plateau is most certainly a must-visit place if you’re in Crete. Located between Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos, the plateau is visited by many bus tours and tourist groups daily, and is a popular destination, primarily for the Diktaean Cave, located in Psychro, but also to see the famous sea of white windmills. We found the reality to be different- as you can see from some of our photos- there are only a handful of these windmills left.
Nevertheless, the visit to the plateau is an incredible experience, one certainly not to be missed!
This is a high endorheic plateau- this means this is a closed basin, and does not have outflows to an ocean, for example. What we didn’t know was that the plateau’s microclimate was completely different to the climate just outside- we left behind lots of sunshine, and upon driving into the plateau, were completely drenched and could barely see the sky as it was so cloudy. The land here is incredibly fertile, and there are many produce grown here- ranging from potatoes to apples and pears. Just a few more words on the weather- be sure to bring an umbrella with you and some warm clothes, even if it is 30 degrees in the city you are leaving behind. We found the early morning and late afternoon to be a bit chilly- so extra layers are definitely needed!
We only did a day trip here, but apparently the best experience is to stay overnight and see the plateau at it’s quietest once all the tourists and tour buses leave and peace descends over the area.
Driving to the plateau
As you can see from the map, the plateau is circular, with the villages dotted around the higher ground to avoid being flooded. We entered the plateau from the north side- as we drove from Malia, and found the drive to be rather windy but offering incredible panoramic views along the way. There are a few places along the route you can pause and take in the amazing scenery and views. Word of warning- do take care when driving on the roads to the plateau and back as they are very windy, and in bad weather even more difficult to navigate!
Views from the drive up to the Lasithi Plateau
The first village we came across within the plateau was Pinakiano– a very small village, before making our way clockwise. We found most of the villages to not be too busy, and it almost felt like we were stepping back in time in some instances- seeing some old fashioned and traditional bakeries, shops etc. There are a few cafes en route, and a few restaurants as well- we came across a particularly good one – Vilaeti Restaurant– located in Agios Konstantinos– in which we were greeted very warmly and would highly recommend. Agios Konstantinos was a decent sized town, with few other restaurants, but a number of small, traditional shops selling various linens, towels, embroidery, weaving, etc. We couldn’t help but get a few pieces to bring back with us as souvenirs!
Windmills en route to Lasithi Plateau
Psychro and the Diktaean Cave
We then made our way to Psychro– most certainly the busiest town within the plateau, with a number of tavernas along the tree-lined street- and the main destination for the Diktaean Cave. This is a short drive from Psychro, well sign-posted to the car park (parking for the day was around €2). There is a cafe near the car park called Amalthea The Divine Goat- which sells various fresh juices, coffees, snacks etc, but also offers an incredible view of the plateau from the terrace at the back. There is also a shop selling various souvenirs, as is to be expected. From here, the entrance to the cave is a short walk up some rocky and steep steps. There is the option to ride up on a donkey- but few people took this option and most just walked up. You then come across the ticket office- entrance to the cave is around €4- and then you just follow the path to the cave itself. The view behind you as you’re climbing this path is stunning- and you can see the whole of Lasithi Plateau beneath, covered in clouds…
View of Lasithi Plateau en route to the Diktaean cave
It is believed that the cave is where Zeus was born and hidden by Rhea, his mother, to protect him from his father Kronos. Kronos believed that his son would overthrow him and therefore ate all his children attempting to prevent this. In this instance, Rhea hid Zeus and tricked Kronos to eat a stone instead. The cave received many worshippers, and many offerings have been found here, as well as remains of an altar. More broadly, there appears to have been human presence in the cave for substantial periods of time, and it appears to have been used for both workship and shelter at different periods in time. The cave itself was only re-discovered in around the 1880s, after which various explorers visited the site, including Sir Arthur Evans who is famous for the excavations at Knossos. To read more about the Diktaean Cave discovery click here.
Steps leading down into the Diktaean Cave
Once you get to the entrance of the cave, you walk down some steps, and follow a circular tour of the cave. You’ll notice it is much cooler in the cave than outside- as the sun is kept out- and it is much more humid.
The entrance to the Diktaean Cave
There are various birds, bats within the cave, and there is also a lake which is surrounded by both stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is incredibly impressive- and it is easy to see how so many stories and so much intrigue surrounds it!
Stalactites and stalagmites within the cave- click on each photo to enlarge
Other places to visit
As well as visiting the Diktaean Cave, there is also the opportunity to visit the Trapeza cave (also known as the Kronion Andron). This cave is far less busy and not as well known-we didn’t manage to visit this cave during this trip unfortunately, however if you have time this might be worth checking out as well if you are really keen. The Trapeza cave is located and signposted from the village of Tzermiado, which is the largest village (and perhaps one of the least touristy), and can be reached via some stone steps.
You can also find the Monastery Vidiani in the plateau- located on the north west side. This is a 19th century men’s monastery- and more about this can be read here.
Overall, a trip to the Lasithi Plateau is certainly an experience in itself- it feels so distant from crystal blue waters and beaches, the endless modern bars and restaurants in the tourist spots- and it feels like stepping into another world.
To read more about what else we would recommend you do and see in Crete, visit our main post on this beautiful island here.
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