In mid-August 2020, instead of our usual holiday abroad, we did a little staycation in Warwickshire. We hired a car for the trip and we managed to find a lovely little place to stay in a tiny village near Warwick and used this as our base to explore the area. We stayed for four days but found that there was much more to see- and easily could have stayed a bit longer to really explore the area. We were leaving behind a heatwave in London, and throughout our trip we found the weather was very up and down- however there was plenty to do and enjoy regardless. Just be sure to pack an umbrella as well as sunglasses for your trip!
Canal walks
After arriving in the afternoon, we spent a few hours walking around the canals. The Grand Union canal runs from London to Birmingham for over 130 miles, and has 158 locks according to the Canal and River Trust- of which 21 are just down the road in Hatton Locks (more on that later). We were lucky enough to be based only be a short walk from this canal, and we managed to do a loop through Kingswood Junction (where the Grand Union canal meets the Stratford-Upon-Avon canal) in Lapworth and enjoy the countryside, rolling fields, grazing sheep and cattle, and some much appreciated fresh air!
There is quite an extensive canal network in the area- so quite a lot of options for walking around, running, cycling- whatever takes your fancy! We’d recommend using the Canal & River Trust website for more information and maps.
Charlecote Park
The morning after arriving in Warwickshire, we visited Charlecote Park. It is located only a short drive away from where we staying- so we managed to get there bright and early to make the most of the day. Belonging to the Lucy family and completed in the 16th century, Charlecote Park was one of the first great Elizabethan houses. It is now surrounded by fallow deer and other wildlife- including historic Jacob sheep and make for a great day out wildlife watching.
During our trip, some of the standard covid-19 social distancing arrangements were in place. We had to pre-book our tickets online in advance, and had to arrive within the pre-booked 30 minute time slot. Parking was free for National Trust members, and everything was well sign posted and directions were easy to follow. After showing our tickets and entering the park, we were able to walk around the grounds and various grazing fields. The house was unfortunately closed- but from reading about it online it seems like a very interesting place and one we would definitely like to revisit once fully open.
We spent quite a few hours walking around. We were told to walk along the mown pathways and footpaths indicated on the maps- but these offer very good views all around as the deer are not really confined to just one small area but roam around freely. We also walked around the Meadow and the Hill Park- which was where Jacob’s sheep were grazing. This is a rare breed sheep that has been at Charlecote Park for a couple of centuries and now help ensure there is a good balance of grass, wild flowers and insects at the park. In fact, Charlecote Park has one of the few in-house lambing teams within the National Trust. Unfortunately it started raining heavily a few hours into our visit, so we only got to briefly see the Jacob’s sheep. We did however manage to pop into the Wood Yard Cafe which was serving takeaway food and drinks, as well as look around the Avenue Shop prior to leaving- there was a good selection of various plants and flowers, as well as gardening/home accessories.
Warwick Castle
After our walk around Charlecotte Park, we drove to Warwick Castle. We looked up the parking options beforehand, but given the rain, we decided to park as closely as possible to the castle rather than where originally planned. We parked in Castle Lane Car Park. Although not mentioned on the Warwick Castle website amongst the list of car parks (perhaps because it is very small!), we found it to be perfectly located as entry to the castle and the admissions was just through an archway.
We had to pre-book our tickets in advance, but found that they were valid all day- which was somewhat of a blessing given that the rain somewhat eased of by the time we arrived!
As is to be expected, there was a one way route in operation to ensure social distancing- and many visitors were wearing face masks throughout (these were compulsory in the castle itself). We first walked through the Horrible Histories maze (it’s not on the map online but is located to the left after entry, prior to going over the drawbridge), and found ourselves walking through time- including the Tudor period and First World war. This maze was well designed, and even though a one way route in operation here as well, we somehow still managed to walk into some dead-ends!
We then walked over the drawbridge into the courtyard of the castle- here there were some takeaway food stalls, souvenir shops and various attractions for children. We headed straight to the castle itself- luckily only having to queue for a short time period prior to entry. The first castle appeared on the site after William the Conqueror’s victory in the Battle of Hastings in 1066, when William ordered a moat and castle to be built in the area. The construction was done by Henry de Newburgh, who then went on to become the first Earl of Warwick, and the castle remained within his family for five generations. The castle had many different owners and went through a lot- including having the great hall and apartments ravaged by a fire and numerous financial difficulties. The castle was sold to the Tussauds Group in 1978, and it is evident just how much renovation and work has been done to preserve the history of this place.
The castle was incredible. Again, there was a one way route in operation but this took us through all the rooms of the castle-from the great hall to the banqueting room and the numerous bedrooms. We spent around 30 minutes or so walking through the castle, after which we walked up the somewhat winding path to the Northern Tower– which had incredible views of the grounds and further afield. It was obvious why this particular spot was chosen as a way of retaining control over the area!
After taking in the views, we walked around the Oak Tree Lawn and the Pageant Fields. There were a few more food stalls here, and various activities for children- such as archery. There was also a number of shows taking place- including falconry at the Falconry Quest (located near the river) and the Bowman Show taking place near the east side of the castle, near the entrance. There are further details of the various shows available online. There is also a nice little garden tucked away on the East side of the grounds- next to the Conservatory Tea House. There were many peacocks roaming around and the flowers were beautiful- and still in bloom luckily!
After our visit to the castle we spent a little bit of time walking around the town- there are many beautiful buildings (in the typical Shakespearean style) and cute little shops and cafes- if you have the time we’d definitely suggest spending some time exploring the town!
Stratford-upon-Avon
On the next day, we drove to Stratford-upon-Avon. For anyone who hasn’t yet been- we would definitely recommend a visit! This is a beautiful little market town, now very popular with tourists due to its status as the place of birth, marriage and burial of Shakespeare. There are various other attractions as well- Anne Hathaway’s cottage ( Shakespeare’s wife), Mary Arden’s house (Shakespeare’s mother), as well as the home of the Royal Shakespeare Company. The town is packed with historical buildings, and it’s certainly worth walking around- especially along Henley Street which is one of the oldest streets (and also where you can find Shakespeare’s Birthplace). During our visit, only Shakespeare’s Birthplace was open- and it wasn’t clear when the other attractions would reopen- so worth looking up and planning your visit in advance. There are also other things to do in Stratford-upon-Avon- from shopping, to Michelin-star restaurants, boating on river Avon and river cruises, and even a Ferris wheel for those keen to see the town from high up. In short- lots of things to keep everyone occupied!
There were quite a few parking options- we parked in the Recreational Grounds Car Park as it had plenty of spaces and was well located (a short walk across the river into the town, but also next to the Ferris wheel and the Butterfly farm). Parking was around £6 for 9 hours- so very reasonable overall.
Shakespeare’s Birthplace
Found on Henley Street, Shakespeare’s house has been wonderfully restored and brought back to life. We booked our tickets in advance for a specific time slot, and had to queue for a short time period after arriving. Face masks also had to be worn throughout, and the whole visit was very well spaced out. As the name suggests, this house was the birthplace of William Shakespeare, and was where he grew up and lived with his parents and siblings, and also for a few years after getting married to Anne Hathaway.
Upon entry, we first walked around a small museum which introduced visitors to Shakespeare and his work, as well as his family. We then entered the garden where we found the Giant Wallbook of Shakespeare– a huge poster which sets out Shakespeare’s plays, the key characters and a summary of each play, as well as some of the most recognised and famous quotes. There was obviously a one way system in place, but this took visitors through all the rooms of the house- starting with Joan Hart’s Cottage (one of Shakespeare’s sister), then through the various rooms- the kitchen, dining room, bedrooms and the Glover’s Workshop– Shakespeare’s dad’s workshop. There were many interesting objects on display in the various rooms, and visitors could scan a QR code to find out more about specific rooms and items.
It was also interesting to learn that after Shakespeare inherited the house (being the eldest surviving child), part of the house was leased as an inn (initially Maidenhead, then Swan and Maidenhead). After his death, the house was passed down to Suzanna, Shakespeare’s eldest daughter, who then passed it to her only child Elizabeth. However, the house then passed to Joan Hart as Elizabeth had no children, and remained in this family until going up for sale in 1847. It was then that it was purchased by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust. Further information on the history of the house and the visit is available here. As mentioned, unfortunately Anne Hathaway’s cottage, Mary Arden’s Farm and Shakespeare’s New Place were all closed- which just means we’ll have to come back at some point!
Butterfly Farm
We came across the Butterfly Farm by chance when looking up what there was to do in Stratford-upon-Avon and were very glad we did so! We booked our tickets in advance- for a specific time slot of course- more details are available here.
Prior to entry, we walked through a Wildflower garden, and then into the Rainforest Flight Area– where we so so many different butterflies flying around and feeding on both fruit and nectar . The entire visit exceeded our expectations- there were many stunning varieties of butterflies, much more than than the typical varieties you would see in a field or meadow. The Butterfly Farm also has a Discovery Zone- where you can see the various stages of a life cycle of a butterfly. We even saw a pupa emerging from its pupae which was incredible! There was a one way route in operation and the ticket allows you one hour to walk around- but you can do the route as many times as you want (there are several route options you can take, including through the *Minibeast Metropolis-* which is one of the largest in the UK.
Throughout our visit, we managed to get close to the butterflies, and even had a few landing on us (please note you cannot actually touch them as that might damage their wings), and got a number of incredible photos. Overall, this was was definitely worth a visit, and one we’d definitely recommend- for children and adults alike!
Hatton Locks
Hatton Locks- a series of 21 locks in just a few miles- are known locally as a “stairway to heaven” apparently because of the hard work involved in going up the Grand Union canal. Given the ascent is almost an impressive 150 feet it is clearly not a simple feat- we saw a few of these locks in operation and it most certainly looked like a good workout! The original locks were built in 1790, and then upgraded shortly after the canal was renamed the Grand Union canal in 1929. The canal was also widened at around that time- and in some sections you can still see the older, narrower sections.
Visiting Hatton Locks was easy- there is a car park that is well signposted, and parking for the whole day was only £1.50 (as of August 2020). There are towpaths along the canal for walking, running, cycling or walking the dog- and generally just enjoying the countryside. There is a cafe/shop- Hatton Locks Cafe– located at the top lock which serves a variety of drinks, breakfast and lunch items (as well as a very good selection of ice cream as we found out!). There were lots of tables outside, and overall was a perfect spot to watch narrow boats go by. Luckily during our visit the sun came out so we were able to just relax and enjoy the sunshine. Worth mentioning that there is also a pub nearby- Hatton Arms– which is easily accessible from both the Hatton Locks car park and the main road. We didn’t get to try the food or drinks here but it seemed relatively busy and appears to be well rated online. There is a very useful map on the Canal & River Trust- available here– which provides a bit more information on the area.
Baddesley Clinton
On our last day in Warwickshire, prior to heading back to London, we stopped by another National Trust place- Baddesley Clinton. Unfortunately the house was closed, however we were still able to walk around the gardens- and this was certainly still worth the visit. The house itself belonged to the same family for 500 years, and was passed down from one generation to the next. When it finally came up for sale in 1940 it was in a very rundown state. It was saved by Thomas Walker who spent 30 years renovating and restoring the house, and in 1980 the National Trust took over. For more information about the history of the house and the stories- check out the story of the house on the National Trust website.
There was a one way route in operation at Baddesley Clinton (see map )- although this seemed to cover almost all of the gardens, with an option to take shorter walks if required. The cafe, shop and toilet facilities were all open but just with social distancing in place. If you haven’t been to a National Trust shop before- we’d definitely recommend a visit as they have a wide range of items, from mugs and books to plants and picnic rugs, and even National Trust Gin! We picked up a bunch of fresh flowers and some Pattypan squash to take back to London with us.
Upon entry to the gardens, we walked through a Walled Garden– with stunning, colourful borders and climbing roses. We seemed to have caught the flowers at their peak as the display was wonderful- as you can see from the photos! We then walked through the vegetable garden, and saw impressively sized pumpkins and other vegetables- and even some of the Pattypan squash that was for sale in the shop! The route then takes you past the Wildflower Meadow, and then through a little wooded area surrounding a lake, which was being thoroughly enjoyed by some ducklings! There was then an option to take either a long route further into the wooded area or take a shorter route back to the house. We took the longer route, and found ourselves walking past some rather loud sheep enjoying the surrounding fields. The walk then takes you up to house and to a picnic area- perfect as a spot for lunch.
There are many walks around Baddesley Clinton- through rolling hills, along canals and winding country lanes. Unfortunately as we had to drive back to London that day, we weren’t able to go on any of these walks- but more information is available here as well as recommended routes.
Overall, it was a very relaxing end to our city escape, prior to embarking on the drive back to London and back to reality. Please do reach out if you have any questions/suggestions or comments and we hope you enjoyed reading!
Food and drink
As we stayed in self-catering accommodation, we cooked the majority of our meals ourselves, but we did go out one evening to a nearby pub-Tom O’ The Wood- and were very pleasantly surprised by their scotch eggs- this was simply the best scotch egg we had ever had! If you are in the area we would definitely recommend stopping by here!
Tom O’ The Wood’s scotch eggs
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