Moscow- a city with so much more than just caviar and vodka!
In 2019, we took advantage of the August bank holiday to spent an extra long weekend in Moscow. This was far from my first visit, but was Wally’s first visit in well over a decade, so in hindsight perhaps we should have stayed for longer… Although as with any capital city, especially one so rich in culture and history, even a few weeks’ holiday would not be enough!
Below we’ve listed some of our favourite parts of the trip, some of recommendations, and the things that are simply a must-do! In terms of getting around the city-the Moscow metro system is very easy to use and navigate, and some of the stations on the metro are stunning and very impressive- with marble floors, statues, even frescoes. Definitely worth checking out! Otherwise you can get around by bus or tram- but you are warned that the traffic in Moscow will almost often slow you down.
We would also suggest staying near to the city center if possible- as it would be easier to get around and you’d spend less time travelling back and forth from the various attractions.
There is a lot to do in Moscow- from museums and art galleries,to cathedrals and monasteries…and lots of amazing food (do check out our Russian recipes- such as Traditional Siberian Pelmeni, Piroshki, Salmon Koulibiaca and others!
Views over Moscow from Sparrow Hills
Day 1: exploring Moscow by foot
After arriving, we spent a good day or so just walking around the center and taking in all the various sites. We were lucky with the weather- but otherwise you could do a similar route and get the metro. One of most interesting areas to explore by foot in Moscow is around the Red Square, and perhaps the icon of Moscow- St Basil’s Cathedral. Within walking distance, you can also see and explore Alexander Garden which lines part of the Kremlin, and the numerous shops, restaurants and bars in the area. The area is also spectacular at night, with many buildings illuminated (such as the Bolshoi Theatre as you can see from the photo at the top of the page).
St Basil’s Cathedral
The Cathedral of Vasiliy the Blessed is a well known and easily recognisable symbol of Moscow. The cathedral was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in the mid 16th Century following the capture of Kazan, and was for some time one of the tallest buildings in Moscow. Whilst the cathedral was called the Cathedral of Intercession (in commemoration of the final siege at Kazan that began on the Feast of Intercession), it is more commonly known as Saint Basil’s- one of the 9 chapels and the last to be added- which holds the remains of Vasiliy the Blessed. Each of the chapels honours an event or part of the battle at Kazan.
The interiors of the chapels are stunning, particularly the Main Iconostatis, the various oil paintings and images of saints. We would definitely recommend visiting the cathedral if you are in Moscow.
The admission fee is around 1000 roubles in the peak, summer months, and 700 roubles at other times. It is also possible to hire an audio guide for an additional fee to guide you around . To find out more about visiting and buying tickets, see here.
St Basil’s Cathedral
Red Square
The Red Square is another famous and easily recognisable landmark- with St Basil’s Cathedral on one side, the Kremlin’s walls on another, and the GUM department store across the square from the Kremlin. This is another incredibly popular tourist destination- and it is easy to see why, given its location and historical and cultural significance. It is also of no surprise that the Red square has also been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990.
A bit of history: towards the end of the 15th century Ivan III ordered for houses that were located infront of the Kremlin to be cleared, and for the square to be built. First serving as a market, the Red Square has in the past seen many parades, religious processions (until the Communist era) and even executions. These days, it is used more often as cultural events, firework displays and other public events. I have previously visited it during Christmas holidays and seen countless Christmas trees, stalls, and at other times of the year, you can find other festivals- such as for spring or Maslenitsa (pancake day) etc.
Lenin’s Mausoleum can also be found here- this is the tomb of Lenin, with his preserved body on display for the public to visit. For a very brief period of time, Stalin’s body was also here, but this was removed in 1961 and buried just outside the Kremlin walls. You can visit the Mausoleum for free on Tuesdays-Thursdays and Saturdays, between 10am and 1pm.
The Red Square also leads onto a number of museums, the most prominent of which is the State Historical Museum (more on this below).
To summarise- the Red Square is certainly a must-visit if in Moscow!
Entrance to Red Square and the Voskresenskiye Vorota
Spasskaya Bashnya as seen from the Red Square
Tsar Cannon
Tsar Bell
Cathedral of the Dormition
The Kremlin
The Kremlin consists of the complex in the city center, fortified from all sides, and has been the citadel for Tsars, then headquarters for the Soviet Union, and is now the residence of the president. Within the fortified walls there are a number of various office buildings, Churches and Cathedrals, Museums, historical buildings and monuments: there is a lot to see! Some of the most famous and interesting places to visit include the State Armoury, the Cathedral of the Dormition, the Tsar Cannon and Bell and the Ivan the Great Bell Tower.
The Kremlin can be visited by tourists- you can buy tickets to visit the individual buildings such as the Armoury or a ticket to visit the entire complex which includes entry to museums and cathedrals , and there is also an option to join guided group tours- see here for more details on tickets and visiting. Tickets are around 1000 roubles, depending on what option you go for.
There are also often various events which take place at the State Kremlin Palace- including ballet performances and musical concerts- see here for more information. In the past, we have visited various ballet performances and concerts and they have all been outstanding, and the State Kremlin Palace itself is a very impressive and grand venue- visiting this alone is quite an experience in itself! If you get a chance, we would suggest having a look to see if there are any performances or concerts on that would be of interest.
The Cathedral of the Dormition/Assumption Cathedral (located within the Kremlin)
This is one of the many cathedrals you can visit in the Kremlin and is actually one of the oldest, dating back to the 14th century, although there are signs that perhaps a church existed on the site prior to that, in the 12th century. In the 1470s, the cathedral was undergoing reconstruction when it collapsed in a freak earthquake in 1474. Then, an Italian architect and engineer was invited to design and rebuild the cathedral- and five years later, the cathedral was consecrated.
In the centuries that followed, there have been various coronations that have taken place here- such as for Ivan the Terrible. The cathedral has also faced many disasters- fires, looting, and being converted to a museum. Following the Russian Revolution and the closure of churches in the Kremlin, the last service took place in 1918, after which it was only returned to the church and reopened to the public in 1990.
The inside of the cathedral is stunning- particularly the five-tier iconostasis- and we would highly recommend a visit here.
Alexander Garden
Located just outside the Kremlin, and indeed running alongside a good part of it, the Alexander Garden is a stunning park with many flowers, plants and various monuments. Originally, this was the site of a river which had to be channelled underground- the only remains you can see is the stone bridge running through the park (which also serves as the entrance to the Kremlin). The park is split into various sections- the section nearest the Red Square has the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier– a memorial with a constantly burning flame since 1967. This flame burns for all the Russians who perished in the second World War.
You can also find the Srednyaya Arsenalnaya Bashnya (literally meaning the Middle Arsenal Tower) here, and in front of it is an obelish erected in 1913 in commemoration of the 300 year Romanov dynasty. Only a few years after being erected, following the Russian Revolution, the obelisk had it’s imperial eagle removed and had its inscriptions replaced with the names of various revolutionary thinkers and communist philosophers.
This park has many benches and it is certainly worth taking a stroll through and taking in all the monuments and history around.
It is also worth noting that you can buy tickets to visit the Kremlin from the ticket office located in the park, and separately you can buy tickets to events in the the State Kremlin Palace a short walk away.
Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Srednyaya Arsenalnaya Bashnya
Day 2: Cathedrals and parks
A quick metro journey (or slightly longer walk) from the Red Square would take you to the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, and across the river to Gorky Park- a very pleasant walk if the weather is good, and lets you soak in and see a bit more of the capital.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
Located close to the Kremlin (easily within walking distance), this is an incredibly stunning and imposing cathedral, and one of the tallest in the world. The cathedral as it currently stands is the second to have been built on the site- the previous one was intended to be built in tribute to those who perished during the French invasion of Russia in 1812. The works on the cathedral didn’t start for a few years though- from 1839- and went on for a number of decades until its consecration in 1883. As with other religious buildings, following the Russian Revolution the cathedral was destroyed. Whilst there were plans in place to build a “Palace of the Soviets”, featuring a statue of Lenin, this work never started. Instead, the foundation was rebuilt into an open air swimming pool in 1958 and became the world’s largest pool. It remained there for a few decades, however in 1980s, discussions started around reconstructing the cathedral. In the years that followed, the Russian Orthodox Church received permission to rebuild, and funds started to be collected. In 1994 the pool was demolished and the cathedral was built and consecrated in August 2000.
The inside of the cathedral is stunning- we were in awe at everything, particularly the iconostasis and the central dome.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
Artwork in the Center for the Arts.Moscow
Center for the Arts.Moscow
Whilst this is perhaps not as well known or as famous as some of the other art galleries or museums, this is an incredibly impressive collection on art, the majority of which has previously not been widely displayed.
Located on the site of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, it took us some time to find the entrance- there weren’t as many signposts as one might expect. Upon entering, after buying the tickets, we were incredibly impressed at the art on display- ranging from pieces of incredible furniture to beautiful paintings. We would highly recommend a visit here- the gallery was not too busy, and made for a more peaceful visit and also presented a great opportunity to walk around and soak in the art on display without crowds!
For more information, and to buy tickets, see here (it seems the website is only available in Russian for the time being).
Artwork in the Center for the Arts.Moscow
Gorky Park
Gorky Central Park of Culture and Leisure (as is its full name) is located south of the river, around a 25 minute walk from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, mostly along the river. If the weather is nice, we would certainly recommend walking here, as you get a good view of the river, as well as seeing the monument to Peter I located on a small island in the middle of the river and the Art Canvas located in the Park of Arts en route.
Gorky Park has been here for quite a while- since 1928, and it was actually only recently renamed after Maxim Gorky after the 90th year anniversary. As the name suggests, this park is all about culture and leisure- and this park is sizeable (300 acres) and offers a lot to visitors- ranging from flower beds and gardens, a boating lake, a skate park, amusement park, Nike sports club, open air theatre and much more.
There are also many benches and spots for lounging around, as well as water fountains and food stalls. This is the perfect place to spend some of the afternoon during a sunny day and just people watch!
Peter the Great Statue
Entrance Gate to Gorky Park
The fountains in Gorky Park
Russian National Dance Show
Russian National Dance Show
In the evening, we went to a performance of the Russian National Dance Show. This is an incredible ballet show called “Kostroma”, with an very impressive programme which guides the audience through the history of Russia, accompanied by dancing, music, countless costumes- this is a great show and we would certainly recommend it if you’re looking to attend a show or performance in Moscow.
See here for more details, ticket prices and to get some snippets from the show. I have personally seen this show on a number of occasions, and it never fails to impress!
Day 3: Cathedrals and parks
This was a Sunday – so we started the day by having brunch at Voskhod (see food and drink section below), and then spent some time walking around Zaryadye.
Zaryadye Park
One of the latest additions to Moscow’s parks, Zaradye Park only opened in 2017 but has a good offering of various facilities, almost all of which are hidden underground. The park and the plants themselves are split into various climatic zones, offering an interesting area to explore, as well as good views. The park also has a media center, amphitheatres, concert hall, restaurants (one of which- Voshod- which we would definitely recommend, see more below in the food and drink section), and perhaps one of the key attractions- a floating bridge. The bridge has been built in a “V” formation, and extends above the river, offering incredible views of Moscow. This is a very popular spot for tourists!
Another part of the park we would recommend is the “Flight over Moscow” and the “Flight over Russia” located in the media center. As the name suggests, this a show where you are taken on a tour from above over Moscow/Russia, shown on a 13 meter hemispherical screen with 3D effects. Tickets cost around 690/850 roubles for adults depending on weekday/weekend visits, and there are also child tickets available. You can find out more and buy tickets online here.
Views towards the river from the Zaradye park
GUM Department Shop
GUM Department Shop
As you are located near to the Red Square, you can spend some more time walking around this area, or perhaps doing some shopping at GUM or Okhotny Ryad, or the surrounding area. Nikolskaya Street (running perpendicular to the Red square) is also worth checking out, with many shops, cafes and souvenir stores.
GUM department store and Okhotny Ryad
Featuring an impressive and imposing facade, you cannot miss the world-famous GUM department store (the full name translates to the ‘Main Universal Store’. We would say this department store is certainly worth visiting- if not for the shopping (check out the list of stores here), then for the old school ice-cream you can buy from the stalls by the entrances, the various food stalls (including blini, candy floss and lemonade), or the various cafes or restaurants dotted around. The three floors of GUM offers many options, and the various seasonal decorations are also impressive and worth checking out. It’s now become a tradition to pop into GUM whenever I’m in Moscow and have an icecream!
And if that’s not enough shopping for you- be sure to head down away from the Red Square to the Okhotny Ryad shopping center. Literally translating to Hunter’s Row, Okhotny Ryad is a busy and busting underground shopping center near the red square- containing countless of shops, restaurants and cafes and even a metro station. Just be careful to not get lost!
Shopping on Nikolskaya Street
Sanduny baths
After all that food, walking and shopping, a trip to the baths would most certainly be in order! I didn’t go on this occasion- only Wally did with some friends- turns out this place is great to both socialise and relax!
Not only is this a stunning building from the outside, but the inside is equally as impressive, and this is a must visit for those who want to experience some real Russian culture.
The baths have been here for over 200 years, and incredibly the water was first provided to the baths by an especially constructed water supply.
These days, there are 3 male sections and 2 female sections, each with halls for relaxation, swimming pools and Russian steam rooms. And of course- there is a restaurant where you can have a snack or a full meal, accompanied by beer and vodka.
For more details and to book tickets, see here.
Decor in Sanduny baths
Traditional Russian food in the Sanduny baths
Sculptures at the Sanduny baths
Poklonnaya Hill and Victory Park
Located in the east side of the city, this is a hill which is home to Victory Park, with a number of World War II museum and displays and both memorials and commemorations.
The Victory Museum is located at the top of the hill- it was opened in 1995, and has various exhibits and memorials on World War II. The Hall of Glory can be found in the middle of the museum- an incredibly impressive room which has all the names of the Hero of the Soviet Union recipients engraved. A visit here is very sobering but recommended, and you can see more here including the opening times. Ticket prices are around 300 roubles and can be booked online.
Located in front of the Victory Museum, you can see the Obelisk and Sculpture of St George Slaying the Dragon, as well as the eternal Flame. The hill also has an Orthodox Church- St George’s Church, and a memorial mosque and Holocaust Memorial Synagogue.
There are also various memorials dotted throughout the park- a memorial in honour of the Cities of Military Glory can be seen just to side of the museum, a memorial to the Heroes of the first World War at the foot of the hill (nearest the tube station) and also a memorial to the missing soldiers without graves.
The Triumphal Arch is also located nearby, and the current arch you can see these days is the third arch , built in the mid 19th century commemorating Russia’s victory over Napoleon.
A short walk away you can also find a Panorama-Museum on the Battle of Borodino– whilst we didn’t visit this museum on this occasion, I had previously visited a number of years ago and it is certainly worth a visit- the panorama is incredible, and there is a lot of information provided about the victory over Napoleon and what lead to it. See here for more information.
It’s worth noting that as well as all the various memorials and museums on the hill, there is also an amusement park, and a ropes course, and a number of cafes dotted throughout- so something for everyone. And a final point- the hill also offers great views over Moscow.
Obelisk and Sculpture of St George Slaying the Dragon
Triumphal Arch
The Victory Museum
Inside the Victory Museum
Nikulin Moscow Circus
We spent the evening watching another show- the Nikulin Moscow Circus, located on the Tsvetnoi Bulvar. Whilst perhaps more popular with children, this circus offers a great programme, stunning costumes, impressive acrobatic feats and clowns that make the entire crowd laugh. I’ve attended the circus on several occasions, and the programmes are generally very good (although some acts are a bit nerve-racking!).
Just to note that there are animals performing- ranging from monkeys to horses, tigers and bears, and some of the acts may be a bit uncomfortable to watch- so might not be for everyone. But overall, an interesting and varied programme! You can see more on about the show and can buy tickets here .
After the circus, we popped into Didi for dinner which is located not too far away- see our food and drink section for more details.
Performers at Nikulin Moscow Circus
Other things we would recommend you do in Moscow
The above is only a sneak-peak into all the capital has to offer- there is so much more! If you have more time, we would also recommend you check out the following:
–The State Tretyakov Gallery: an art gallery that started off from the donation of Pavel Tretuakov’s private collection to the city, and is now the largest collection of Russian art in the world. A must-visit for any artist or enthusiast. See here for more details.
–The State Historical Museum: this museum is located on the edge of the red square. The collection is vast and ranges from various relics to priceless artwork he museum’s exhibitions range from relics to manuscripts and even personal belongings of the first Tsar. See here for more details – and you can also see some of the virtual tours the museum is running.
– Bolshoi Theatre: Russian ballet is well regarded globally, so for any ballet fans, where else to visit other than the home of the oldest and most famous ballet companies in the world? We would highly recommend a visit to the Bolshoi Theatre to watch a performance. More details on the upcoming programme are available here.
–Operetta Theatre: located near the Bolshoi Theatre, the Operetta Theatre hosts both classical operas and also international musicals – I have attended several musicals here, and they were excellent (on par with some of the West End performances in London and that is saying something!). See here for details.
–Sparrow Hills : a slightly different option to the above, this is one of the highest viewpoints in Moscow, and offers great panoramic views of the city (see photo above!). As well as the views, this place is pleasant for just walking around, there is also a botanical garden nearby and cable cars from the nearby Luzhniki Stadium to the hill. See here for more and ticket options.
This list could go on and on… there is so much more to see in Moscow- from Kolomenskoe to Kuskovo… in short- several visits to this beautiful city will have to be made!
Our Favourite Food in Moscow
Voskhod
Brunch on a Sunday at Voskhod is simply a must do for any brunch fans, foodies or those keen on trying as many Russian dishes as possible! Whilst on the slightly more pricey side compared to other options around (around £40 per person), brunch here is incredible, serving everything from sliced meats and cheese, to herring, caviar, pelmeni, lobster…the list could go on. Oh- and also a very good drink selection- champagne, wine, vodka… and cakes. Many cakes as you can see from the photo! However, as well as having a lot of choice, the quality of the food was great, and the atmosphere was also very nice- we were lucky to be there on a sunny day so managed to get a seat outside on the terrace, with great views. The decor of the restaurant is also very fun- with a space/rocket theme plus soviet style throughout- this makes for a great experience overall!
Didi
Part of the Ginza project, Did is located on the Tverskoi Boulevard, and is a European/Georgian restarunt. There is an extensive menu, serving predominantly Georgian dishes- aubergine rolls, khinkali, khachapuri- everything was delicious. We were sat on the terrace area outside and the atmosphere was great, and the service good. Would certainly recommend if in the area.
Depo Moscow Food hall
A relatively new addition to the Moscow food scene, Depo Moscow Foodhall is located in the North-West of the city, near the Belorusskaya metro. We actually popped by on our way back to the airport as there is an express train from the terminal straight to the airport. Apparently the Depo Moscow is the biggest food mall in Europe- and although we didn’t spend that long walking around, we were spoilt for choice from the cuisines and food options available! As well as restaurants and cafes, there are also food stalls selling food and drinks from all over the world- whether cheese, fish, meat- whatever your preference you will find something here to suit, as well as countless souvenir options. Great place for groups as well- you can all split up to buy food from different places and then come together as the tables dotted around do not belong to a specific food outlet. We went for a Georgian restaurant in the end- and it was delicious!
Yeliseyevsky food hall
Our final entry is perhaps the most impressive one… as it has the longest history, having been open in 1901. Unfortunately, although the food hall survived both World Wars, the revolution and the Soviet Union, Covid was too much and the hall closed earlier this year in 2021. We’ve kept it in the blog though on the off-chance it reopens and to preserve this stunning place- as you can see from the photos, the food hall was incredible in its architecture, as well as the products on offer. Fingers crossed it might come back…
Suggested itineraries for Moscow
Weekend trip
If you’re visiting Moscow for the weekend (hopefully a long weekend!) we would suggest spending some time around the Red Square, visiting the Kremlin and the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. We would also suggest popping into GUM for an ice cream/old fashioned lemonade, and perhaps having brunch at Voskhod to try some of Russia’s best dishes!
Week-long trip
If you’re visiting Moscow for a bit longer- perhaps a week-long trip, in addition to the things we suggest for a weekend trip, you would also have time to visit Gorky Park, attend a show at either the Russian National Dance show (or perhaps a ballet performance at the Bolshoi Theatre), visit the Center for the Arts.Moscow, and spend some time walking around Zaradye Park. We would highly recommend visiting the “Flight over Moscow” attraction to find out more about the city and what else there is on offer. And finally- pop into the Depo Moscow Food hall for some souvenirs!
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