A delight for all the senses- from souqs to mosques, from tagines to merguez.
Riad Jemaa Elfna
In early 2020, before the pandmic engulfed the planet and temporarily put all travel plans on hold, Wally and I were very lucky to escape to Marrakesh. Only a few hours flight from London, Marrakesh was the perfect option for some winter sun, as well as incredible food, culture and architecture.
During our relatively short trip, we were lucky to see and visit a fair bit of what Marrakesh has to offer. Everywhere we went, we were surrounded by incredible scents and an enhanting buzz- this definitely felt like a city that never stops! Therefore, to try and get the most out of our trip, and be as close to the action and the sights as possible, we chose to stay in a riad just off the main square- Jemaa el-Fnaa Square- which appeared to be both the heart and soul of the city- more on this square later. A riad is a traditional Moroccan guest house, usually small and often with a garden or courtyard (sometimes a pool) in the middle, surrounded by rooms on all sides. To note- we found staying in a riad to be quite noisy (as you would expect if you stay in the middle of a big city) but it was worth it to be so central and experience a riad, rather than a modern, bland hotel.
In terms of getting around, we walked to most places, and got a taxi if going slightly further away- to the airport for example. Walking around was easy enough- but we found that on the occasion we asked for directions, we were expected to give a tip- something we had not experienced during our travels in Europe.
Another point to note is regarding currency: the currency in Morocco is dirham and it is a restricted currency- so you cannot exchange your local currency for dirham abroad prior to your trip as it is only available in Morocco. We were able to withdraw currency when needed at most ATMs: we found some stalls only took cash so needed to cary some around with us on occasion.
With regards to language and communicating- the main, official language is Arabic but we found that we were able to get by in Marrakesh with French. As with any trip abroad, we’d recommend learning some words of Arabic at least.
Day 1- Walking around the souqs and Jemaa el-Fnaa Square
On the first night, as we arrived quite late in the day. we just spent some time walk around Jemma El-Fnaa Square and some of the souq stalls nearby.
Walking around Jemma El-Fnaa Square was quite an experience- for all the senses. We spent quite a bit of time here during our trip- whether in the morning, or at night. Our favourite time experience was being here at dusk, watching the city light up and really come alive. We managed to find a great little rooftop cafe- check out the food and drink section below for our recommendation- but it was great to sit on the roof as the sun set, watching both people and the chaos of the square unfold down below.
In the morning, we found the square to be relatively calm and peaceful. We saw some of the stalls only just being set up for the day, but it is nice to walk around when the place isn’t completely heaving with tourisits. After lunch, the pace really picks up- you can see countless musicians, acrobats, animals ranging from monkeys to cobras, and thats not to mention all the food stalls dotted around.
The food stalls offer so much choice- snails, grilled meat, tajines. We would recommend coming here for dinner once- to try several of the dishes, but also to just experience the atmosphere. And do check out the souqs for any shopping or souvenirs you want to buy- there was everything from spices and baskets to ceramics and babouches. We found that on occasion we were some what ripped off with our purchases- so do haggle and work out what you’re willing to pay, rather than accept the initial price quoted. And as with any major tourist place, do keep an eye on your belongings, especially as this place gets incredible busy towards the end of the day. Another tip- if you have food at the stalls, we were recommended to stick to bottled water and use bread rather than utensils (as on occasion these are just rinsed).
Just some of the stalls in the souqs- click through for more photos.
Food stalls at Jemaa el-Fnaa Square at night
Dar Si Said
Day 2- Lots of palaces and walking…
Our second day was rather more busy as we tried to cover a few more of the top sights of the city. After a delicious breakfast in our riad, we explored several palaces and experienced some authentic Moroccan cuisine.
Dar Si Said
This is a 19th century palace and museum and an incredible sight. The palace belonged to Si Said, the brother of Ba Ahmed who was the ruler of the kingdom between 1984 and 1990, and lived at the Bahia Palace (more on this below). We visited both palaces- Dar Si Said is much smaller, but you can clearly see the similarites between the two in terms of architecture and style.
As well as being able to see the palace, Dar Si Said hosts the Museum Moroccan of Arts– featuring impressive looms, carpets and ceramics. There are a number of rooms to walk around and explore, some displaying the various collections of the museum, but also a some incredible rooms, such as the grand reception room. This is on the fist floor, and has stunning wooden ceilings- definitely worth having a look at.
There is a lot of beautiful features dotted around- arched doorways, intricare ceilings, tiled floors- you can clearly see the mastery here. There is also a stunning courtyard with a fountain. Do check out the wooden gazebo here- and not just for the photos- the ceiling is simply beautiful.
Column details in Dar Si Said
Above: Weaving loom in Dar Si Said
Below: Courtyard in Dar Si Said
Bahia Palace
Above: Stained glass windows
To the right: Small courtyard
Below: Ceiling detail, all at Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace
We then walked to Bahia Palace, which is located just 250m away from Dar Si Said. As metnioned, Bahia Palace and Dar Si Said are quite similar- but Bahia Palace is much more grand. With “Bahia” meaning beautiful, the place is certainly appropriately named. We found the palace to be exquisite and stunning, which explained the masses of tourists- far more than at Dar Si Said. The palace has various rooms and courtyards to explore, and the orientation does not seem to have a clear plan- probably as the palace was expanded over the years.
The entrance to the Palace is also as impressive- through some grand gates and down a tree-lined path. Within the palace itself, you have two riads- a small and a big, and two courtyards- small and big. It is very easy to just spend half a day walking around, taking in all the stunning decor, the tiles and the elaborate attention to detail. The gardens are also well designed and looked after, providing a peaceful oasis.
Herbs and spices at the Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum
The Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum
We stumbled across this museum by complete chance- but it was actually one of our favourite parts of the trip. Located round the corner from Bahia Palace, this is definitely worth a visit for anyone with an interest in food. The museum has the elements of a riad but has exellent modern facilities: not only is there an introduction to the cuisine, but there is also a chance to try various dishes- such as pastries, salads, and of course Moroccan tea.
Consisting of three floors, the museum had a lot of the exhibits and items on display had English labels so it was easy to follow and understand. There were many display screens so overall it was very well designed and informative, explaining what the main dishes are and how they are cooked. The museum also has a stunning courtyard, a shop and there was also an option to do some cooking classes- we didn’t do this- and even so easily spent a few hours walking around the museum.
Again- very highly recommended!
Above: Moroccan tea
Below: A food exhibition
To the left: Tea Exhibition, all at the Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum
Above: Badii Palace ruins
Below: the sunken gardens
Right: storks nesting on the Badii Palace
Badii Palace
Located a short walk away from the Bahia Palace and the Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum, our next stop was the Badii Palace. Whilst now you can only see the ruins, by walking around you can clearly see how impressive and grand the palace would have been back in the day.
Constructed in the 16th century for the then sultan, Al-Mansur, the palace was paved with precious stones, and looks it had like quite an impressive courtyard and gardens. After the death of the sultan, the palace was negleted, looted and broken down for its precious stones, some of which were used in other buildings in the city.
Today you can walk around the palace quite freely- particularly majestic were some of the views from some of the higher up viewpoints, where you can see not only the views of the palace, but also numerous storks nesting.
Panoramic view of Badii Palace
Saadian Tombs and Kasbah Mosque Minaret
Located around the corner from the Badii Palace, you can find both the Saadian Tombs and the Kasbah Mosque Minaret. Whilst we didn’t go into the Mosque (it is closed to non-muslims), we saw the Minaret from down the road, it is an impressive sight. The Kasbah Mosque is the main mosque for this part of the medina.
As for the Saadian Tombs- anyone can visit these, just a word of warning- this is a very busy and popular tourist attraction, and there was a decent queue when we went which was after lunchtime. It may be best to arrive right after opening or much later in the day.
The Saadian Tombs are extravagant. Constructred in the 16th century, particularly for the Saadian dynasty and the rein of Al-Mansur, although non-royals were also buried here but in the Garden Tombs.
There is also a seperate standalone tomb for Al-Mansur’s mother, Lalla Messaouda, in the courtyard. The main attraction here however is the lavish Chamber of 12 Pillars which is decorated with Italian marble and plasterwork, giving a very regal feel to the place. The architecture and the detail is simply stunning- we would definitely recommend taking some time to take it all in. As well as the final resting place of Al-Mansur, the chamber holds the tombs of his sons and wife, and all of the tombs here are from marble.
You can see the Chamber of the 12 Pillars from the courtyard- just follow the other tourists and join the queue. We would also recommend spending some time in the courtyard and the surroundings.
Above: the seperate tomb for Al-Mansur’s mother- Lalla Messaouda
Below: the main tomb
Left: some of the 12 pillars within the Chamber
Day 3- A garden or two…
By pure chance, we happened to visit not just one but two gardens on this day- both definitely worthwhile, as you can see from the incredible photos below! The gardens offer a nice change from the noisy and busy narrow streets, and are beautifully designed and decorated with greenery, waterways and benches.
Le Jardin Secret
This was another one of our favourite parts of the trip- and one that we came across by accident, whilst walking through the souqs to the Musée de Marrakech and Jardin Majorelle. Located not too far from the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, Le Jardin Secret is a restored 19th century palace and is not only stunning but incredibly peaceful- a sharp contrast to the noise and bustle from the souqs just a few meters away!
With numerous water features, the garden offers an oasis of calm- there are numerous benches dotted around where visitors can rest, as well as a two cafes and a shop. We would defitely recommend visiting here for some peace, as well as the beautiful scenery. To read more about le Jardin Secret and to find out about visiting, click here
Jardin Majorelle
Above: water features at the Jardin Secret
Below: views over the Jardin Secret
The Inner Courtyard in the Musée de Marrakech
Above: a small courtyard
Below: ceiling detail, both in the Musée de Marrakech
Musée de Marrakech
We always try to visit a museum or two during our trips abroad- and Marrakesh was no different. We found the museum to be not too big- but giving a good and interesting overview of how lavishly those higher up in society lived. The museum is housed in the Mnebhi Palace- the former (and rather grand) home to a defence minister. Prior to becoming a museum, the place was used as a school. Featuring a number of various exhibition rooms, we easily spent an hour or so walking around. We also saw an exhibition on local comtemporary art and ceramics from Fez.
However, what was most impressive was the Inner Courtyard. There are stunning archways, stained glass and an incredible brass lamp suspended in the middle of the room- as you can see from the photos- the combination makes for a very lavish room. We also found the palace hammam rooms to be interesting, with a hot and cold rooms as is expected, it certainly gives a clear idea of the daily life in the palace was back then. If in the area, we would recommend a visit here but perhaps not worth going completly out of the way for.
Jardin Majorelle and Yves Saint Laurent Museum
One of the perhaps most icononic scenes in Marrakesh, Jardin Majorelle is a two-acre botanical garden, located a few minutes walk away from the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The garden, designed by a French artist, Jacques Majorelle, was developed over a period of four decades from the 1920s onwards. Until Majorelle’s divorce in the 1950s, this was their residence, and in the 1980s the garden (and the villa within) was bought by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint-Laurent. Infact, the ashes of Yves Saint-Laurent were scattered in these gardens after his death, and the garden is now open to the public. It is however incredibly busy, given its fame and very photogenic scenery- hence do watch out for the queues.
As well as walking around the gardens, amid the fountains and around the varoius water features, there is an impressive collection of cacti. However, what is most striking perhaps is the strong blue you can see throughout- called Majorelle Blue- a shade of cobalt blue. You can also visit the Pierre Bergé museum of Berber Arts which sits in the main villa, displaying an exhibition of Berber culture. There is also a cafe on site, and a shop which is worth checking out.
The famous villa in Jardin Majorelle, now the Musée Berbère Jardin Majorelle
If you visit Jardin Majorelle, it is also worthwhile visiting the Yves Saint Laurent Museum next door, and indeed purchasing a combined ticket- giving you access to both places and a discount. Tickets can be purchased online in advance- see here for more details and opening times.
The Yves Saint Laurent museum is dedicated to the fashion designer, with an exhibtion hall with numerous photos, sketches, videos and stunning pieces and items of clothing.
Whilst we are more interested in food than fashion, this was an interesting experience, and most probably a must-visit for any fashion enthusiast. Of interest is also the architecture of the building itself, seamlessly blending into the environment, using local materials and native plant species.
To find out more about visiting the museum, current exhibitions and opening times, see here.
Top right: exhibition at the Jardin Majorelle
Bottom right: water features at the Jardin Majorelle
Above: Yves Saint-Laurent museum
Hammam at Medina Spa
To round the day off, we decided to have a hammam treatment- at Medina Spa. It was located just off Jemaa el-Fnaa Square. We booked ourselves in for a package which included a massage and some morrocan tea. The whole experience was very good, relaxing and calming, and we’d definitely recommend to others. To find out more, click here.
Marrakesh by night- Koutabia mosque
Best Food & Drink
Marrakesh offers a variety of incredible dishes- below we’ve just summarised a few of our favourites that we would recommend any visitor to try.
Tajine
A tajine is simply a must try if in Marrakesh. Named after the clay pot it is cooked in, tajines generally consist of stews or casseroles, but are also just used to cook sausages and veg- we had a delicious dish of merguez and vegetables and would highly recommend a tajine to any tourist.
Snails
Perhaps a bit like marmite- either you love it or hate it- snails are something we rather enjoy and we found the snails which were being sold in a stall in Jemma El-Fnaa Square to be good- and worth trying!
Morrocan desserts
If you have a sweet tooth, then definitely visit one of the numerous stalls in the Souqs selling various pastries and desserts- we had a box whilst on holiday (you can mix these to try different types) and then bought some to bring back for family. Absolutely delicious, rich in flavour (and probably calories!).
Morrocan tea
Another must try- whether you are a tea or coffee drinker. We found the act of having Morrocan tea to be really interesting- the tea is poured into a glass then poured back into the pot, instead of just stirring or letting it infuse. The tea is mostly mint and is delicious. Whlist walking around the souqs, we also found other teas which we tried and brought back with us, such as Berber tea, which we’ve found to be particularly good as medicine when feeling under the weather.
Cafe des Epices
This was a cafe we stumbled across whilst walking around the souks- and here we had several amazing dishes- a tajine and really delicious meatballs. Would higly recommend- it was busy, but the cafe has a small rooftop so provides a nice escape from the crowds below!
Le Salama
We first noticed this restaurant on our first night when walking from the Jemma El-Fnaa Square to the riad (it is very centrally located!). The outside decor is quite impressive- there are tons of plants hanging down and similarly, the inside decor is also stunning- with lots of greenery and lampshades. We found the food to be decent too- we had some fallafel, and the atmosphere was nice. It does seem to be mostly a tourist spot, so perhaps slightly overpriced and perhaps not as authentic as other local restaurants.
Taj’in Darna
Located right on Jemma El-Fnaa Square, this place is amazing for people watching and watching the square down below. We managed to get a front row table, and it was just incredible to watch the sun se and the city light up. Highly recommended for the views- although we just had some tea here so can’t say anything about other food or drink.
Above: Tajine at Cafe des Epices
Below: snails
Above: Some of the sweet stalls
Below: Moroccan tea
Above: meatballs at Cafe des Epices
Below: Falafel at Le Salama
Above: decor at Le Salama
Below: views of the Jemma El-Fnaa Square from the Taj’in Darna cafe
Suggested itineraries for Marrakesh
Weekend trip
If you’re passing through Marrakesh, a weekend would be just about enough to check out the main square, wander around the souqs, and see both Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. On the second day, check out the Dar Si Said and then pop into the Cafe des Epices.
Week-long trip
If you are visiting Marrakesh for a week or so, then you should have more than enough time to check out almost everything we’ve mentioned above- as well as perhaps do a day trip to the Atlas Mountains, Ouzoud Waterfall or a trip to the dessert.
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